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Oil/filter Change Advice


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#1 rob39

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 01:13 PM

Hi all
I have a citreon picasso 2ltr auto exclusive 07, (about 70.000 miles). Need to change the oil and filter. What king of Oil shuld I use and when going under the car from the front which way does the sump plug turn and filter. Also what size spanner does the plug take.

#2 Bornagainbiker

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 02:59 PM

From the FAQ 10W/40 semi-synthetic. Both sump plug and filter unscrew anti-clickwise when facing them. You'll probably need a chain-wrench on the filter, or stab it with a screw driver and turn (messy).

Although I like to do my own servicing, I've decided that for the relatively low cost, Kwik-Fit can do my next oil/filter change, because the small amount of money saved does not make the mess worth it. I'd recommend a garage doing this job for you - takes them a few mins on a ramp. Underneath on axle stands is less fun, especially as it's not really an interesting job.

Current vehicles: 2004 Citroën Picasso 1.8 Desire (owned since 2008), 2004 Ford Fiesta 1.2 Finesse (owned since 2009)
Previous vehicles (in approx reverse order of ownership): Ford Galaxy (2000 1.9TDi), Rover 200 (1999 1.1), Toyota Carina E (1993 1.6), Toyota Previa (1992 2.4), Peugeot 309 (1990 1.3), Renault 5 (1990 1.1), Austin Montego (1986 1.6), Fiat Tempra (1992 1.8), Renault 5 (1989 1.2), Lada Riva (1986 1.5), Vauxhall Cavalier SRi (1983 1.8), Lada 1200 Estate (1984 1.2) - what a lot of cars!
Also owned the following bikes (reverse order): Yamaha Radian YX600 (1986), Honda CD175 (c.1970s), Yamaha YB100 (c.1980s), Honda C50 (c. 1980s)


Should probably change my forum name as I sold the Radian a while ago! Currently get my thrills co-driving a friend's 914.


#3 ajrm

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 05:56 PM

I would do it yourself but no matter how careful you are, you are likely to spill oil from the old filter and it will be very black!
Oil change itself takes a few minutes unless you have the under tray, then you need to take that off and ensure it is reaffixed properly or you will lose it. I used Halfords 10w40 semi synthetic oil.

I used Kwik Fit once to change the oil in my CX GTi. The filter is at the back of the engine on top of the (hot) exhaust. The fitter burnt himself a few times ( judging by the swearing) but he did it. Then he put in the oil, started it and revved the engine a lot. I asked him politely not to do that. He answered saying it gets the oil round the engine quicker!
Well, you can't argue with logic like that and I swore I would never use them again......

Allan

#4 Lancelot

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 11:57 PM

Black oil? I've never seen that in a petrol engine for many years. Mine is as clear at the change interval as when it was put in. Are Diesel engines different? I've never owned one one.
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#5 stimulator

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 09:20 AM

Oil in a diesel goes black fairly quickly, it's doing its job and collecting the rubbish from the combustion; even modern fully synthetics, which I have in my C3 1.6Hdi. As for changing them that's every two years or 12,500 miles,only do about 6K a year these days; petrol I belive is 20,000 miles unless you are in a hostile environment. The old days of changing it for Duckhams 20/50 every 5K have gone. Even at 2 years old the old is still very viscose.

It just isn't worth changing it yourself these days as you ahve to get rid of it a local amnity tip in the oil tank, plus all that oil on the floor if you miss.
62 Reg C3 Picasso VTR+ 1.6 HDi 92BHP
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#6 rob39

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:26 PM

Thanks guys.
Does anyone know the spanner size for the sump plug?

#7 Bornagainbiker

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:11 PM

I *think* it's 17mm - or it could be 19mm. It's around that size. You don't need anything special.

Current vehicles: 2004 Citroën Picasso 1.8 Desire (owned since 2008), 2004 Ford Fiesta 1.2 Finesse (owned since 2009)
Previous vehicles (in approx reverse order of ownership): Ford Galaxy (2000 1.9TDi), Rover 200 (1999 1.1), Toyota Carina E (1993 1.6), Toyota Previa (1992 2.4), Peugeot 309 (1990 1.3), Renault 5 (1990 1.1), Austin Montego (1986 1.6), Fiat Tempra (1992 1.8), Renault 5 (1989 1.2), Lada Riva (1986 1.5), Vauxhall Cavalier SRi (1983 1.8), Lada 1200 Estate (1984 1.2) - what a lot of cars!
Also owned the following bikes (reverse order): Yamaha Radian YX600 (1986), Honda CD175 (c.1970s), Yamaha YB100 (c.1980s), Honda C50 (c. 1980s)


Should probably change my forum name as I sold the Radian a while ago! Currently get my thrills co-driving a friend's 914.


#8 PembsPanther

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 05:51 PM

Tip for ya all :)

If you ever get one of those huge 15 litre bucket of paint, when the paint is used up keep it! Give it a good wash out and then when you do your oil change put it under the sump, the thing is so big it is almost impossible to spill any :) Same when taking the filter off shove it underneath first. I have the 1.8 oil guzzler so what I did last time was to let the oil run down to just over the min mark then I funnel it into an empty 5 litre screen wash bottle, the kind you get the ready mixed stuff in Halfords for 3 for a tenner usually. The it is just a quick trip to the local recycling centre to get rid of it.

I always do my own oil changes, I quite enjoy it in a funny kind of way ;) This is my first Pic I gave it its first oil change a couple of months ago and treated it to fully synthetic oil................the only thing it has given me so far is an oil leak! Not much of one more of a drip I need to get underneath and see where it is coming from really, the joys of the home mechanic who has no ramp :(

#9 Pitt 2.0HDI 2002

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:07 AM

Sorry to drag up an old post, I have an 02 plate 2.0 HDI, looking in the car manual it states, do not use 10w/40 if you have a filter, however I have no idea if I do have the filter...It states use 5w/40 if you do...

Any ideas which filter it relates to and where I would find it to ascertain if I am OK using the 10w/40

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#10 Charliee

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:50 AM

2.0 HDI doesn't have FAP (filter in exhaust) so 10/40 fine, although at the moment I'm using 5/40 synthetic in mine with no detriment.
It's all in FAQ's if you check above.......

Edited by Charliee, 09 January 2012 - 11:51 AM.


#11 Pitt 2.0HDI 2002

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:20 PM

Thanks Charliee, I could not spot it in the FAQ, but thanks, appreciated

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#12 garethcarr

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:52 PM

very helpfull

#13 davepicasso

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 08:58 PM

I thought I better comment on the oil+filter changes I have been doing on my 2 citroen picasso's today.

One is a 1.6 petrol 53 reg. The other a 1.6hdl diesel 08 reg..

Both cars are working fine and have never failed MOTs

The first thing I must comment on is that the 1.6 petrol last had an oil+filter change 8years ago.I  have had this car since new. it has done 48k miles and averages 44-46 miles/gallon.  The diesel has done  106k miles. 14k by me in the last 3 years. It has not had an oil+filter change since I bought it.

I use it for long runs and it is economical with diesel giving me around 82-84 m/g on the motorway averaging 55m/h.I do take the 3 back seats out though!

I decided to do oil+filter change after getting the oil and filters for both cars for a total of £37.44

I have seen people comment on here saying the oil drain plug is a 21mm for the 1.6 petrol. Well it is not. It is larger than that maybe 24 mm I had to use some mole grips to get mine off. The largest I have was 21mm which did fit my 1.6 diesel!. To drain the oil I use an old 5 litre plastic oil container with the side removed. (3.25ltr for 1.6 petrol, and 3.75ltr for the diesel). I then fill an empty oil container with the  oil for the council dump.

One thing I must point out that the 1.6 petrol was last serviced under waranty at a Citroen main dealer in  late 2005. I drove it home with the oil light on all the time (1.5mile) when I got home I found out on checking the dip stick that the dipsticks had forgotten to put any oil in it!

Another concern which I have only just found out is that the bottom cover plate is missing on both cars. I don't know about the diesel but I think those dipsticks didn't put it back!

Both cars have the plastic housed paper filters. I have both chain and belt strap for removing metal filter casings. I could not get them to budge and they would slip due to not wanting to tighten to much and break the plastic casing. Anyway my son in law came round with a 27mm socket spanner that enabled me to get them loose for both cars.

Changing the filters is a really messy business. I have the Haynes booklet and it is not really helpful.

On removing the filters half the contents spill out!

The next problem is removing the paper filter. I just could not pull the filter from the housing. It took me nearly an hour of cutting and breaking the plastic of the paper filter to actually find out what was stopping it from being removed. When I finally broke it up I found that the filter casing had down inside 6 retaining lugs. The old filter had a plastic top which when pressed in snapped into position and locked though it was free to rotate. The new filter has a rubber type connector which does allow it to be pushed into position then easily removed. On the diesel the filter has a location lug that fits ito the engine. It is best to fit the paper filter first then put the plastic cover on afterwards this makes sure the fitler is fitted correctly..

When filling with oil use an old pop bottle as a funnel. Remember of course to cut the bottom half off first!

Well both cars have been done. I have saved around £60 on what National tyres wanted. Was it worth it NO!!

My hands are grained in oil and my jeans are ruined. Plus all the stress.

Next time somone else can do it!



#14 Lancelot

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 11:40 PM

You learned the hard way.  Much cheaper to let National/KwikFart or someone like that do it.  Take your labour at around £20 an hour and you've lost money plus a pair of jeans.


The retired Beak with a 2ltr Petrol, Exclusive, Automatic, Picasso.
Arctic Steel - of course!

#15 bvs

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:36 AM

I would not trust Kwikfit for oil changes LOL !

I always wear gloves when working on cars etc !

On the HDI engines one should remove the oil filter first to dump the old oil into the sump - and then drain the sump.

As I have said on previous posts - I change my HDI oil twice a year (spring and autumn) which means every 6-7000 miles,it is a cheap way of keeping your turbo happy : )

The oil filter element is always hard to remove from the cover but it should pull off ok !


Edited by bvs, 23 March 2014 - 12:37 AM.

2009 C3 picasso 1.6 hdi vtr+

Previous inc a couple of zx diesels,zantia diesel !


#16 davepicasso

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 09:54 AM

Having the filter pointing upwards half the oil would go into the sump from the filter the other half remains in the plastic cover and flows out when removed from the engine. There was no way the paper filter would pull out of the plastic cover. Using brute force would have damaged the retaining lugs in the cover. Plus the damm thing is covered in old dirty black oil.The only way to get the filter out was to cut it out bit by bit! I was nice and clean until I had to remove the paper filter! When i was younger I always had Ford cars. The oil filter was always in a metal can and angled downwards it was easy to replace and with hardly any oil spill when the can was removed.



#17 bvs

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:34 PM

Yup the 'modern' upwards facing paper element filters are a PITA (you can probably thank the 'green brigade' for that,as I believe it was environmental considerations that brought the demise of the much loved 'spin on' oil filters) !


2009 C3 picasso 1.6 hdi vtr+

Previous inc a couple of zx diesels,zantia diesel !


#18 merton

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:56 PM

i think the 1.6 petrol has a drain plug on the oil filter housing (allen head) . you can cut the top off a plastic bottle and use that to catch the oil without too much mess . i think alot of the engines have the drain plug in the housing.