9 replies to this topic

[granpa]

Back in the 70's I built a lean-to at the back of the house, it ran the full 20 ft of the wall but due to a rapidly rising garden was only 4 ft wide, but it served us well and became a well-used extension , to cut a long story short, it has got terminal rot, I invited the big-name companies to quote on replacing with upvc and that new fangled double glazing, because it was not a straight forward job I was given some ludicrous prices as a deterrent to saying yes, I have managed to find an experienced father and son team locally that come with recommendations, its nice to discuss the possible snags and remedies with people that are capable of sorting it out, big problem now is sorting a window in the weather, not a particularly good time for this type of job as it involves both demolition and rebuild

[stimulator]

When SWMBO wanted a conservatory I was amazed at the cost from those well known "you won't believe the prices" lot and went to Wickes or B&Q where I found a Build it yourself item. 3x4 metre, double glazed but polycarbonate roof. No dwarf walls. This unit was built on a metal subframe which required 6 or 8 concrete pads to support it. Cost 6k and 1k for the frame. If you have the base then you dont need the pads. It took me and a lad 2 days to build it. Was a good job and is still standing. Note ite was in 2001.

[granpa]

Big players only want straight forward build that can be quickly fitted for maximum profit, when a complication is involved they look for the exit. What about the latest craze for triple glazing, if you read up about double glazing there is an optimum air gap which double glazing is on the point of exceeding and both going beyond this or opting for triple is not efficiency or cost effective, must be really heavy for the poor fitters though.

[Lancelot]

What is the max. air gap that is considered to be sensible?  Thinking of replacing double glazing throught the house as the current ones have been in since 1990. Very narrow air gap.

Edited by Lancelot, 18 January 2015 - 02:11 PM.

[granpa]

Put it this way overall thickness of my glazing is 25mm, possible glass thickness of 4mm per sheet gives gap of 17mm, I think early d/g airgaps were more like 5mm. upvc frame width is about 70mm to carry this wider glass

[granpa]

Timing was unbelievably perfect, I had previously demolished the earlier structure so when they turned up it was for a straightforward build, it took them two days and it looks a treat, the following day it snowed like crazy so we were very fortunate, its taking me a lot longer working on the inside, no rush, with tanking and insulating, but its nice to be able to look out and see the ice and snow but be warm enough for working

[crickleymal]

What is the max. air gap that is considered to be sensible?  Thinking of replacing double glazing throught the house as the current ones have been in since 1990. Very narrow air gap.

I have no idea but I suspect it depends on what is between the panes. I remember reading somewhere that a large gap increases heat loss by allowing air circulation but obviously a small gap allows heat loss by radiation.

[granpa]

Latest gimmick is triple glazing which will avoid the large air gap of double glazing and specialist glass will address the radiation problem, curious to watch my 'self cleaning glass' in action

[crickleymal]

I have self cleaning glass, it's known as the wife 

[granpa]

Well that's it, replaced and up and running, all twiddly bits done like roller blinds, drilling and tapping the reinforcing steel to bolt on my outside banister rail, its down steps to the door, without drilling too close to the glass, all the electric sockets and lights functioning and seats awaiting for another couple of degrees temperature rise then enjoy.

Edited by granpa, 12 March 2015 - 12:35 PM.