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Changing some of house lighting from halogen to LED


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#1 granpa

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 12:43 PM

Its fine fitting halogens in the home, plenty light but when it comes to how much leccy they use its a bit staggering, so I have started updating some of my lighting, all the old incandescent bulbs were kicked out a few years ago and at present I have a mix of the mini neon economy bulbs, slow to start up as they age, and halogen, instant start but very hot. I sent for a couple of warm white LEDs to try in the bathroom where there is a direct comparison available with a couple of halogens, very impressive, almost the same light output though slightly whiter, swapping one for the shower I was disappointed as my feet and shower tray blended into a grey gloom so this one location will, for the present remain halogen lit, bearing in mind the consumption in that one room has dropped from 200w to 70w.

Now to tackle the hall, stairs and landing, in total 350w which after conversion will be 21w, with the bonus of a much longer projected bulb life. The initial outlay is quite a lot but with fuel prices shooting through the roof its as well to do it now

Main lighting in living room etc will still be the economy bulbs for the better spread of light.

 

 



#2 stimulator

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 02:26 PM

Great minds think alike.

When we moved into our new home in 2009, the builders were fast to point out the lighting. The majority of rooms were fitted with down lighters, which were fitted with neon GU10 spotlights., running at 11W and 2700K. These were fitted in the bathrooms  kitchen and garden room. Ok they are low wattage (11) but the time it takes them to reach operating temp/output is too long and by the time they are on song you've peed and left the room (toilets). For some reason they decided to only fit one in each bathroom and in the shower a 12V down lighter.

 

So I began a hunt for something better. To start with the only answer seemed to be going to halogen GU10s which I put in the en-suite BUT increased the number to 3. That put the wattage total up to 150 from 11. As it was the en-suite I decided that the light gain for the short time they were on warranted the increase wattage.

However after 4.5 years the bulbs started to fail.

So an alternative was hunted for on the net. Now modern LED units running 3.5W looked attractive. These are a direct GU10 replacement and run at 3000K, 200 lumen. So I bought 4 on good old Ebay for the total cost of £10. They arrived and are in use. The result is a bathroom that is bright BUT has a tinge to the light., maybe 6500K would  be better. Now the total wattage is back to 11.5W, but I am running the three so the room is much brighter than the origin GU10 spotlight was. These units contain 48 surface mounted devices (individual LEDs). Equivalent output is 11W. made by BEIYI a German company.


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#3 Border_Collie

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 02:43 PM

Just bought a dozen 7W day white Golf LED bulbs off eBay for £37, three for the front cluster and three for the back half. One went dim after about 5 hours, only 49995 hours short of its expected life.

 

Very strange white light, took a while to get used to, going into the kitchen or hall and there is a noticeable yellowish light from the halogen ones which I always thought looked white. I'll change the other existing bulbs as and when they die.

 

I did quite a bit of research before purchase and found the following a good guide.

 

Lumens      LED          BULB

800             6-8W        60W

1100           9-13W      75W

1600          16-20W     100W

 

 


Edited by Border_Collie, 12 December 2013 - 02:50 PM.


#4 granpa

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 08:41 PM

Regarding the hall, stairs and landing, as well as the usual 240v lights [7 altogether] I have run a 12v system to provide automatic dusk to 11 pm ish illumination at a much lower light level, doubles up as a burglar deterrent during our hols, this latter system has 3 bulbs rated at 20w each [halogen], designed to be a low electric consumption circuit it now burns more than the entire stair system, so is being changed to lower output LEDs with its own 12v driver. Interesting project that should payoff in the future
Deliberately steered clear of the white and day white bulbs as they are too cold and clinical, warm white is very acceptable

#5 Border_Collie

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 10:33 PM

Just had an earful from my superior other half, who, evidently, told me to order warm white. :(



#6 granpa

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 08:21 AM

You need to be looking at lumens figures between 3000 and 3500 for warm white, below this people say it starts to turn green and above it leans towards a stark blue white, also note the angle of light it can range from 35 to 120 degrees. I cant see any significant difference in light from 3.5 w and 5 w rated LEDs



#7 stimulator

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 09:28 AM

Isn't the K fig you are quoting there. My 3.5w smd led are 3000k 200 lumins. 3000 lumins would melt your retinas.
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#8 granpa

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:28 PM

Stand corrected, couldn't be bothered finding the box

#9 stimulator

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:43 AM

No problems.

 

it's a pity that all boxes don't have a table with

 

Watts

lumens

K

equivalent watts

 

would be most helpful.


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#10 granpa

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 04:34 PM

No problems.
 
it's a pity that all boxes don't have a table with
 
Watts
lumens
K
equivalent watts
 
would be most helpful


Plus angle of dangle so we can differentiate between spot and flood light

Edited by granpa, 16 December 2013 - 04:35 PM.


#11 granpa

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 08:52 AM

Yesterday changed all the bulbs in hall [2], stairs [3] and landing [2], all on individual 2-way circuits, this morning, it was dark when I got up, noticed the 3 stairs lights were glowing ever so dimly, thinking faulty wiring, faulty switches etc I did a Google search, it is more common than I expected, many forums in the USA have this as a topic and the general conclusion is that the main cause is electro magnetic forces from nearby wiring to which the more sensitive LED is being influenced, whereas a tungsten or halogen would not be activated by such a miniscule current. So if this happens to you, done panic !


Edited by granpa, 19 December 2013 - 08:53 AM.


#12 Lancelot

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 09:41 AM

Brother in law changed from fluorescent lamps to LED.  As they are the same wattage surely there is no saving???


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#13 gittos

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 10:20 AM

Maybe not Lance, but probably a significant improvement in the quality of the light.


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#14 granpa

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 11:58 AM

Brother in law changed from fluorescent lamps to LED.  As they are the same wattage surely there is no saving???

 

Assume you're not referring to tubes here Lance, the mini fluorescent bulbs quite possibly are rated the same or very close but the advantage of LED is instant start-up at full output



#15 granpa

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 10:09 PM

Had some feedback from my daughter who has been trying LEDs in her kitchen, she has had to refit Halogens, she was experiencing blurred vision and headaches when working under the LEDs, Light output, colour and spread of light was on a par with Halogen but there must be some sort of frequency flicker that some people are more susceptible to than others, must admit that when I am working in my cellar, which is now fully LED lit I too have noticed I am not as comfortable as I was with the Fluorescent strip lighting but am able to dismiss it.
Has anybody else noted strange effects under these lights ?

Edited by granpa, 10 January 2014 - 10:19 PM.


#16 Lancelot

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 01:08 PM

Check this out  www.tinyurl.com/ldcanju


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#17 crickleymal

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 03:51 PM

White LEDs do emit UV light but have a fluorescing layer built in to provide the correct colour. I should imagine that the amount of UV coming out is pretty small. At the distances from the bulb that you will normally be at the chance of damage will be fairly small. Paintings get damaged because the LED bulb is pretty close to the artwork I guess.

We have CFLs thoughout our house and don't have any problem with them. Good quality ones light up pretty quickly and even if they didn't the light available is more than adequate to lift the toilet lid, have a pee and flush. The old lady that lived here before us had some hideous ceiling light in the lounge with three bulbs in it. She used 40W bulbs and the light output was abysmal. Changed them for 3 10W CFLs and the difference was astounding.
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#18 granpa

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 06:46 AM

Gone overboard here, we have some garden lights on a 12v system burning 7w on ordinary car type bulbs, now fitted with 'cylinder' style led clusters rated at 3w, brightness is astounding, gone from a dim yellow to a really bright white, similar to the solar garden lights when fully charged

#19 granpa

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 07:45 AM

Update on the LED situation, since I did the changeover in December / January there have been no failures in any of the bulbs, strangely we have got used to the light difference and now regard it as the norm, same for the garden lighting which is on a combined daylight sensor and timer circuit which means it operates every evening from dusk to 11pm, well pleased, good result.



#20 stimulator

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 10:57 AM

OK further changes to house lights. The CFL down lights fitted by the builder have over the last 5 years slowly got dimmer. They never were that good with slow start to full bright times. These are 72mm long, 11W 3000K warm white.

Currently decorating the conservatory which is fitted with these and the kitchen so decided to change them. Now 72mm long LED units are in the region of
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