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"engine Temperature Stop" Fault Fixed......


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#1 Davey_Picasso

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Posted 07 August 2009 - 07:42 PM

Well it's taken a bit of time, but it would appear that I've managed to fix my "Engine Temperature Stop" fault which I've been living with for a few weeks now. To cut a long story short.

1. Jumpered the fan relays and the fan system worked fine = Fan OK
2. Checked for trigger volts at relays with engine running and air con selected.
3. Middle relay found to be missing the trigger voltage for the relay.
4. Relay traced to pressure switch on air con condenser.
5. Did DIY air con top up.
6. Driven today for about an hour with no fault.

#2 Guest_katandroj_*

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Posted 07 August 2009 - 09:15 PM

Hi davey

I am new to the forum and been looking around when I stumbled across your post. We seem to be having the same prob with our 1.8 54 desire. The "Stop engine temperature" warning comes on then the fan kicks in and cools it down. We dont think it is the air con though as it happens if we have the air con on or not. Sometimes it happens when you start a jopurney sometimes it doesnt happen at all. Sometimes you could be driving for a while then it kicks in. It is very random.

Katand roj xx

Edited by JoeBlunt, 24 August 2009 - 10:56 AM.
Quote Removed


#3 jjwiese

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Posted 15 August 2009 - 06:51 AM

Hi

I agree with Katandroj. The air-con clutch will disengadge when the alarm is active. Check if the clutch falls out before the alarm or after.
I have the same problem but only after driving a while, so i am checking the water pump. The dealers told me to remove the water pipe that goes to the bottom of the rediator from the back of the engine witch will enable me to see the water pump impeller. I will be able to see if it is still there and turn the engine by hand to see if it turns. It gona be a sqweese but I have to try it before I buy the R810 water pump.

#4 hotelfoxtrot

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 01:57 AM

We seem to be having the same prob with our 1.8 54 desire. The "Stop engine temperature" warning comes on then the fan kicks in and cools it down

Mine did this. Changed the coolant temp switch and problem solved

#5 jjwiese

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 04:25 AM

I have replaced that also but fault still there. I think I was stupid with the faultfinding. I have removed the thermostat to see if it was stuck and found that it didn't open, I put it in a pot and cooked it for a sec or two and still didn't open. So removed it totaly and checked the car but fault still there. So i left it out and replaced the temp sensor and so on and so on and couldn't find the fault. So I replaced the thermostat now to see if it will be ok. It struck me that the water could be flowing to fast to cool down at high revs, thats why it only gets hot when I drive a while and not on short distances. Have't tested it jet.

#6 Charliee

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 09:14 AM

I have the same problem but only after driving a while, so i am checking the water pump. The dealers told me to remove the water pipe that goes to the bottom of the rediator from the back of the engine witch will enable me to see the water pump impeller. I will be able to see if it is still there and turn the engine by hand to see if it turns. It gona be a sqweese but I have to try it before I buy the R810 water pump.

Big difference here: you are going to check your water pump because your engine is actually overheating, but some others are getting overheat warning when their engines are not overheating, so are checking the warning system for cause of eroneous warning. Of course an electric problem with fan activation may well be the cause of genuine overheating.
Perhaps I'm stating the obvious,(sorry, if I am!) but in all overheat warning situations the first diagnostic tool is a thermometer, together with the simple question "Is my fan running when I get warning?" ...........

#7 tiler1

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:20 PM

Sorry for butting into someone elses post, however it will not allow me to start one of my own!!

Having prob with STOP ENGINE TEMP warning. Have changed the two coolant sensors and had the three fan relays checked which are all ok.
When the warning comes on, if i switch the internal heater upto no 4 setting with the air con on, the warning stops, as soon as i drop the heater down to any other setting (1,2 or 3) the warning starts again, approx every 20 secs, unless i get up a good speed and then it seems to colect emough rammed air from the outside onto the rad.

The car IS NOT OVERHEATING its just a fault. I have noticed that when the aircon is selected and the fan should operate continuously, it doesnt seem to be. It does kick in on slow speed, then after 10 secs or so switches off. Just as its stopped spinning it then kicks in again. Is this right or should it stay on continuously without stopping??

Im wondering now whether it may be the fan resistor? Is this connected to the symptoms of having aircon blowing on no4 setting to stop problem or is it something to do with the aircon compressor??

Any ideas on how to solve this pain in the backside fault would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Paul

#8 tiler1

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 02:51 PM

Help!!!! Anyone???????
Ive searched the forum but cant seem to find anything with the same symptoms re the aircon??

#9 Guest_Rajobey_*

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 06:56 PM

Help!!!! Anyone???????
Ive searched the forum but cant seem to find anything with the same symptoms re the aircon??


I know this is an old thread, but did you ever fix this fault?
My 2003 1.6 petrol desire has just developed the exact same problem, and local mechanic is stumped!

Thanks!

#10 jjwiese

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 09:40 AM

Hi

I was struggling with this problem for a while now and for a last resort I took out the waterpump for inspection. There was no impeler left. Installed a new one and problems end. I used the car this weekend in 42 deg celsuis and not a problem. Everybody said that the waterpump will not fail and i could change it but they garentee me it is not the waterpump. The dealers said that they have never changed a waterpump and that they don't even keep it on stock. They order it spesial. So I changed everything but the waterpump and last did the waterpump. It was not a big deal and anyone with some tools could do it.

#11 Lancelot

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 01:41 PM

Do you use a proper radiator coolant or just plain water? Coolant will have inhibitors to prevent corrosion.
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#12 Bornagainbiker

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 03:39 PM

I'm surprised to hear changing the water pump being described as 'easy'; access to it was the thing that put me off doing this job myself, but maybe you were able to use a ramp or garage?

Current vehicles: 2004 Citroën Picasso 1.8 Desire (owned since 2008), 2004 Ford Fiesta 1.2 Finesse (owned since 2009)
Previous vehicles (in approx reverse order of ownership): Ford Galaxy (2000 1.9TDi), Rover 200 (1999 1.1), Toyota Carina E (1993 1.6), Toyota Previa (1992 2.4), Peugeot 309 (1990 1.3), Renault 5 (1990 1.1), Austin Montego (1986 1.6), Fiat Tempra (1992 1.8), Renault 5 (1989 1.2), Lada Riva (1986 1.5), Vauxhall Cavalier SRi (1983 1.8), Lada 1200 Estate (1984 1.2) - what a lot of cars!
Also owned the following bikes (reverse order): Yamaha Radian YX600 (1986), Honda CD175 (c.1970s), Yamaha YB100 (c.1980s), Honda C50 (c. 1980s)


Should probably change my forum name as I sold the Radian a while ago! Currently get my thrills co-driving a friend's 914.


#13 jjwiese

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:15 AM

I'm surprised to hear changing the water pump being described as 'easy'; access to it was the thing that put me off doing this job myself, but maybe you were able to use a ramp or garage?

Hi
I did not use a ramp and the space is a bit cramped but you could fit your hands and tools in there. I'm a Instrument Technician and a fix it all type of guy but it wasn't that diffecult to do. I have loaded the steps in a tread of the engin stop alarm. Hope the steps help. I have done this on trial and error and work out fine.
I had antifreese in the rediator witch have a corrosion inhibetor. My pumps impeller had craks all around and the impeller was missing. It didn't rust away it was bloken off. I had this problem for a while and even with the impeller broken off it still circulate water at a low rate and made the problem not that easy to identify. The pump cost me R490 and the should have been the first thing that I should have checked.

Edited by jjwiese, 31 January 2012 - 06:18 AM.


#14 Dannyboy79

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Posted 10 July 2015 - 07:02 AM

I have had the same problem with my xsara Picasso as well . The temperature shoots up for a few seconds then goes back down I changed the censor on top of the engine and the thermostat but still doing it . I noticed that the fan does not come on when I put the air conditioning on as it should . That's making me think it's a relay or resistor . Now I'm no mechanic it's only what I,'ve read that brings me to my conclusion . Any input or help would be much appreciated

#15 Paparicht

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 09:45 AM

Hi. Having the same issues here. Have replaced the temperature sensor, thermostat, 3 relays and refreshed the coolant. Warning only goes off when the car is not moving I.e traffic / lights. Fan kicks in only for a few seconds after the alarm goes off, the fades to a stop.

Any suggestions as to where I should look next would be much appreciated. I’ve read above about the water pump or resistors - anyone had any success? Thanks. Rich.

#16 Paparicht

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 03:34 PM

Continuing on from the post above. I’ve now found the air con is completely out of pressure, ac compressor is not engaging. Apparently the ac controls 2 of the relays, waiting to hear for a quote to get the air con fixed.