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Heater Blower Resistor


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#41 rory77

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 08:40 PM

Hi guys,

New to this forum as bought my first picasso yesterday.

Blower not working so changed resistor as suggested on forum. Changed resistor rather than buying new resistor pack. Result...when i turned car back on to check, the blower still wasn't working and the engine fault warning came on. Is this going to be related or have i just been stitched up?



Another satisfied customer. Bought new resistor pack today. Put it back on in about 30 seconds. Hey presto...heater working and engine mgmt light gone off. Thanks guys, I can only reiterate what everyone else said...it really is a 10 minute job once you,ve located the resistor.

#42 rookery54

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 01:57 PM

Been meaning to do this job since January :huh:

Followed Dave's instuctions job took me about an Hour after getting a foam cushion fo my back i never knew i could get in those sort of positions :D :D :D

only extra cost i had was a soldering iron which bought at maplins for a fiver along with the fuse :rolleyes:

#43 Guest_Andy69_*

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:45 PM

OK
I have followed the instructions shown on the FAQ and have the following to add.
1. Remove the felt trim by the pedals.
2. Put the air selector to circulation.
3. Using a torch locate the fan assy - the resistor module is towards the drivers side at the top inside the assy. Then feel your way in as it were.
4. My module had a holey metal guard over the pack - just pops off - put back on before fitment.
5. Twist module by plastic base anti clockwise about 1/8th turn and pull.
6. Wires allow it to drop by a couple of inches. The connector has 2 little push in tabs each side that need to be depressed to release. I did one at a time and with a bit of luck it came off in about 30 secs.
7. I got a new thermal fuse from Maplins for 69p rated at 152 C - Maplin code RA17T - the original was 144 or there abouts.
8. Maplin advise using connectors as soldering might blow fuse due to heat. I used clips as heat shunt and soldered in new one.
8. Refit shroud then reconnect plug.
9. I checked it worked before pushing back into casing - it did. Refit trim and look smug. B)
10. Total time about 20 mins - cost inc solder about 72p
11. If anyone would like help with this please ask






#44 Guest_Andy69_*

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:58 PM

Thanks Devondave, and others,
Had same prob........heater only working in position 4 .After reading all posts, and studying the photo's got new fuse from Maplin........after much trepidation ? took the plunge.........job done, now I'm looking smug too !!!!
All the best Andy69

#45 4 cars

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 04:38 PM

Hi Gents I'm after some advice I have read the how to guide on this forum but mine seems to be in a different place, I have a 2001 1.8. I have the usual issues where the fan will only work on high speed, has anyone got another how to guide on my model, I have located it but I cant seem to get it out, short of taking the dash out of course. any ideas would be greatly received....



#46 4 cars

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 05:01 PM

Hi If you have a 2001 18i then your resistor will be mounted within the fan motor itself
first you will need to undo the wrap around the main consul and remove totally. Then you need access under the dash driver side by un-clipping the three studs and two rear ones
The fan motor is directly above where you will have to un-connect the fan cable.Two connectors here one for the
The live and the other is the resistor Remove both Then turn the fan motor anticlockwise to release from the housing and pull out wards you will find the resistor is screwed around the fan motor looks like a Hedgehoggs back.

I HOPE THIS HELPS

4 CARS

#47 Guest_rocket_*

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 06:29 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle

#48 4 cars

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:08 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle



#49 4 cars

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:10 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle



#50 4 cars

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:32 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle


Yes i purchased a new fan motor complete with resistor for £100.00 Once you have got your back supported and
taken your cod oil tablets.Start stripping out the glove box and the under side look up into the center consul,
you may need a torch, Look for s a torx head screw This holds the fan in place once released the holding screw,s
unscrew about 1/8 of a turn to break out the locking tabs Then your free to remove the motor towards you
if the pedals are restricting the path for removal you can strip out the resistor to help bend the fan impeller beyond the pedals as mine did did on 2001 18i excl you need plenty of patients and be flexible. better to get a young nimble lad as it gets a bit tough on the body depends on your age of course
good luck i hope this help. I HAVE REPLACED ALL THESE PARTS STILL NO FAN WORKING I THINK ITS THE IGNITION SWITCH SO I AM BEING ADVISED.

4 cars

#51 4 cars

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:34 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle


Yes i purchased a new fan motor complete with resistor for £100.00 Once you have got your back supported and
taken your cod oil tablets.Start stripping out the glove box and the under side look up into the center consul,
you may need a torch, Look for s a torx head screw This holds the fan in place once released the holding screw,s
unscrew about 1/8 of a turn to break out the locking tabs Then your free to remove the motor towards you
if the pedals are restricting the path for removal you can strip out the resistor to help bend the fan impeller beyond the pedals as mine did did on 2001 18i excl you need plenty of patients and be flexible. better to get a young nimble lad as it gets a bit tough on the body depends on your age of course
good luck i hope this help. I HAVE REPLACED ALL THESE PARTS STILL NO FAN WORKING I THINK ITS THE IGNITION SWITCH SO I AM BEING ADVISED.

4 cars

#52 4 cars

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Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:35 PM

Took mine to dealer 50 quid for them to diognose a burnt out fan motor and 350 quid to fix it.

Is the motor replacement an easy job to tackle


Yes i purchased a new fan motor complete with resistor for £100.00 Once you have got your back supported and
taken your cod oil tablets.Start stripping out the glove box and the under side look up into the center consul,
you may need a torch, Look for s a torx head screw This holds the fan in place once released the holding screw,s
unscrew about 1/8 of a turn to break out the locking tabs Then your free to remove the motor towards you
if the pedals are restricting the path for removal you can strip out the resistor to help bend the fan impeller beyond the pedals as mine did did on 2001 18i excl you need plenty of patients and be flexible. better to get a young nimble lad as it gets a bit tough on the body depends on your age of course
good luck i hope this help. I HAVE REPLACED ALL THESE PARTS STILL NO FAN WORKING I THINK ITS THE IGNITION SWITCH SO I AM BEING ADVISED.

4 cars

#53 Guest_Solo_*

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 03:55 PM

OK
I have followed the instructions shown on the FAQ and have the following to add.
1. Remove the felt trim by the pedals.
2. Put the air selector to circulation.
3. Using a torch locate the fan assy - the resistor module is towards the drivers side at the top inside the assy. Then feel your way in as it were.
4. My module had a holey metal guard over the pack - just pops off - put back on before fitment.
5. Twist module by plastic base anti clockwise about 1/8th turn and pull.
6. Wires allow it to drop by a couple of inches. The connector has 2 little push in tabs each side that need to be depressed to release. I did one at a time and with a bit of luck it came off in about 30 secs.
7. I got a new thermal fuse from Maplins for 69p rated at 152 C - Maplin code RA17T - the original was 144 or there abouts.
8. Maplin advise using connectors as soldering might blow fuse due to heat. I used clips as heat shunt and soldered in new one.
8. Refit shroud then reconnect plug.
9. I checked it worked before pushing back into casing - it did. Refit trim and look smug. <img src="http://www.citroenpi...DIR#>/cool.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="B)" border="0" alt="cool.gif" />
10. Total time about 20 mins - cost inc solder about 72p
11. If anyone would like help with this please ask







#54 Guest_Solo_*

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 04:02 PM

Hi
I've got a 1.6 diesel desire, have taken the panel above the drivers footwell out, put the circulation lever to inside only but can't find the resister pack. Its certainly not in the position shown by the pics. Is it likely to be in a different place for this model. thanks

#55 4 cars

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 04:25 PM

Hi
I've got a 1.6 diesel desire, have taken the panel above the drivers footwell out, put the circulation lever to inside only but can't find the resister pack. Its certainly not in the position shown by the pics. Is it likely to be in a different place for this model. thanks



Hi Solo,
You have not mentioned what year your car is. I have a 2004 diesel & 18 2001 petrol both are different
with resistor Have you been able to locate your fan motor is your control switch digital or manual turn

4 cars

#56 Guest_Solo_*

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Posted 30 September 2010 - 12:37 PM

Hi Solo,
You have not mentioned what year your car is. I have a 2004 diesel & 18 2001 petrol both are different
with resistor Have you been able to locate your fan motor is your control switch digital or manual turn

4 cars


Hi its a 2006 model, with manual switch - had another go today and found the resistor pack located at the very top of the air distribution housing - fiddly job getting it out and unplugging it but finally managed and replaced the thermal fuse which was burnt out. Thanks

#57 4 cars

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Posted 30 September 2010 - 01:07 PM

Hi its a 2006 model, with manual switch - had another go today and found the resistor pack located at the very top of the air distribution housing - fiddly job getting it out and unplugging it but finally managed and replaced the thermal fuse which was burnt out. Thanks





Well Done ! Good luck

4 cars

#58 Alan_C

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 05:36 PM

Hi If you have a 2001 18i then your resistor will be mounted within the fan motor itself
first you will need to undo the wrap around the main consul and remove totally. Then you need access under the dash driver side by un-clipping the three studs and two rear ones
The fan motor is directly above where you will have to un-connect the fan cable.Two connectors here one for the
The live and the other is the resistor Remove both Then turn the fan motor anticlockwise to release from the housing and pull out wards you will find the resistor is screwed around the fan motor looks like a Hedgehoggs back.

<snip> Start stripping out the glove box and the under side look up into the center consul,
you may need a torch, Look for s a torx head screw This holds the fan in place once released the holding screw,s
unscrew about 1/8 of a turn to break out the locking tabs Then your free to remove the motor towards you
if the pedals are restricting the path for removal you can strip out the resistor to help bend the fan impeller beyond the pedals as mine did did on 2001 18i excl you need plenty of patients and be flexible. better to get a young nimble lad as it gets a bit tough on the body depends on your age of course
good luck i hope this help.

4 cars

First of all, thanks for being the only one who says how to do this on a car with auto climate control!

Sorry I'm not sure - are you saying access to the motor is on the passenger side (remove glove box) or driver's side? I have all the trim off but can't work out which screws to undo to get the motor out.... nor am I certain which are the connectors, so I can test for power!

#59 Alan_C

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 06:40 PM

<snip>
[is] access to the motor on the passenger side (remove glove box) or driver's side? I have all the trim off but can't work out which screws to undo to get the motor out.... nor am I certain which are the connectors, so I can test for power!


I'm pretty sure now that I've found the connectors (on the passenger's side) and the Torx screw (also on the passenger's side), but I can't turn the motor. Also (working in the dark) I can't manage to get test probes onto the main connector to check for power there! But maybe it'll be easier in the daylight, tomorrow.

#60 Alan_C

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:59 AM

Hi Solo,
You have not mentioned what year your car is. I have a 2004 diesel & 18 2001 petrol both are different
with resistor Have you been able to locate your fan motor is your control switch digital or manual turn

4 cars

Ah, Now I think I understand! Mine is a 2001 2.0 HDi with auto climate control. The resistor pack is inside the blower housing, and the fan motor is accessed from the passenger side. If I've understood, in a 1.8 petrol with auto climate control the resistor pack is also in the blower housing but access is from the driver's side.